Walks · Rio de Janeiro, Brazil · 7 min read
Rio before the beach wakes up
Santa Teresa at seven, the tram down, and a coffee counter where nobody is on holiday. The version of Rio that made me stay two extra weeks.
Rio de Janeiro · Paraty · Ilha Grande · Salvador
Brazil
Rio hill neighbourhoods, colonial Paraty and the long green coast between them. Loud, warm, and much slower than it looks.
Brazil itineraries
Slow travel · Paraty, Brazil · 6 min read
Four days in Paraty and nothing to do
Cobbles that flood at high tide, a boat with no schedule, and the cachaça distillery up the dirt road. How to spend a week doing very little well.
Local life · Salvador, Brazil · 7 min read
Salvador on a Tuesday night, following the drums
Pelourinho empties of tour groups by seven and fills with rehearsal blocos by eight. Where to stand, what to eat first, and how to get home.
